SKIN FIRST PHILOSOPHY – Using ingredients that support the skin, not a marketing campaign!
Selection of ingredients in skincare products is vital for efficacy and results. A balanced approach needs to applied in order to strengthen the various elements at play within the skin and to support protection, metabolism, and regeneration processes.
There is an endless myriad of new active ingredients created every year, and some are quite exciting and revolutionary while many are just trends that are being redeveloped from the same raw materials that have been around for years. Sometimes it is the tried and true, “non-sexy” ingredients that have years of claims support that are the most beneficial such as Niacinamide, Ceramides, and Linoleic acid, or Natural Moisturising Factors, as these are part of the skin physiology so it makes sense to restore these elements to healthy levels to return the skin to health – this is a logical approach.
When selecting raw materials and active ingredients for our range we always consider what is the science and how does it support the skin – in a balanced manner – as this is paramount. There is no point in having a product full of active plant extracts with high antioxidant content but having no balance of lipid elements or moisturising factors. Skin isn’t one dimensional and your skincare shouldn’t be either.
Skin Homeostasis Approach - Checklist for product development:
Factors to Address with every product
- Maintaining a healthy microbiome (natural commensal bacteria)
- Maintain Keratinocyte (skin cells) health
- Control effects of stress on the skin
- Correct barrier disruption
- Reduce inflammation
- Restore lipid imbalance
- Replace Natural Moisturising factors
- Stimulate skin regenerative processes
WHY CHOOSE PHOSPHOLIPID EMULSIFIERS?
They are 100% natural raw materials and present a high affinity and biocompatibility with the skin.
Phospholipids are the primary lipid found in the epidermis, accounting for nearly 50% of the total lipid content. However, the level of phospholipids decreases to less than 5% in the stratum corneum (SC – upper layer of the skin). This is a result of differentiation, when the cells in the epidermis gradually move up into the SC. During differentiation, the phospholipids break down into free fatty acids to help build the “mortar” that holds the cells (corneocytes) in the SC together.
Compared to other types of emulsifier systems on the market they are better tolerated and can be used for all kinds of products, particularly for the most delicate and sensitive skin types. Phospholipid emulsifiers are associated with skin care benefits such as increased moisturization, and decreased inflammation and pigmentation.
100% Active Formulas
Phospholipids also have specific biological activities. As natural skin-identical ingredients, they have a high affinity to the skin and therefore they diffuse through the skin layers easily. They provide an important source of essential fatty acids to keep the skin supple. They form a protective and restructuring film on the skin’s surface which prevents the water loss while increasing the hydration and act as a delivery system for active ingredients.
The “Second Skin” concept
The lamellar emulsion mimics the lipid structure of the stratum corneum for a perfect affinity. It acts as a “second skin” and therefore helps to restore the cutaneous barrier of damaged skin. The emulsion melts on the skin during the application and forms a restructuring film which reduces TEWL.
The natural barrier of irritated skin is disrupted by physical and chemical damages, causing redness and dryness. Phospholipid emulsifiers form a biomimetic lipid film on the skin’s surface to prevent damage. The phytosterols also soothe and calm the irritated skin due to their well-known anti-inflammatory properties. Phospholipid emulsifiers maintain the protective function of the stratum corneum.
Research Papers - Click links below to read research papers